I’ve Visited 30 National Parks—This Is the Best Hike I’ve Taken

As a frequent national park traveler and outdoor photographer, I’ve logged hundreds of miles in America’s public lands—yet one jaunt, in particular, still stands out to me: The vertiginous journey down to the base of the Grand Canyon.

 I trekked it in December 2023 with plans and a permit to camp at Bright Angel Campground, a scenic cottonwood-shaded hideaway just near the famed Phantom Ranch (the only lodging on the world wonder’s floor). Then, two days before my trip, a miracle happened: One last-minute reservation became available for Phantom Ranch.

The ranch digs typically book out over a year in advance, but if you’re lucky, you can either get in via the lottery or a last-minute opening. This made the grueling but gorgeous hike down and up the steep South Kaibab Trail even more memorable.

Here’s what to know about hiking to the base of the Grand Canyon—and why it deserves a spot on your travel list. 

[Editor’s note: Grand Canyon National Park is undergoing several closures, so keep an eye on the park website for the latest updates.]

What to Know Before You Go

You can expect fewer crowds.

Of the roughly five million people who visit the Grand Canyon annually, only five percent go below the canyon rim, and only one percent make it down to the marvel’s floor. The crowds thin the further you go, and for good reason: This trail is tough.

Yet it does come with major rewards. You experience a less-trodden side of the scenic Grand Canyon, from dipping your toes into the Colorado River to crossing the swinging bridges for the last leg over the water. A journey deep into the crag also helps you comprehend the enormity of this terrestrial marvel.

It’s hard work.

From the Grand Canyon’s South Rim, you can either take the South Kaibab or Bright Angel Trail in and out of the canyon. I opted for the former because the Bright Angel Trail was closed for repairs, but unfortunately, it’s the steeper of the two. The South Kaibab Trail is a knee-jarring 12 miles round-trip, with an elevation change of around 4,800 feet. That means you’re descending straight down nearly 5,000 feet, then re-gaining all of that elevation with a straight-up slog back to the rim.

In total, the trail took me around five hours to descend and about seven hours to climb up, with one overnight at Phantom Ranch on the Grand Canyon floor to break up the lactic acid onslaught. My husband and I are both pretty fit and former marathon runners, and even for us, it was strenuous. Make sure to give yourself plenty of time, and do some hill training if you’re planning to hike it.

Could you do it all in a day? Sure, if you’re really, really fit. The National Park Service recommends against this, though, and I agree with them. It’s extremely challenging, and only the most in-shape people can tackle an up-and-back challenge. Plus, why rush your time experiencing this wonder of the world?

There’s great wildlife spotting.

One thing that made the adventure extra exciting was the unique wildlife. On previous Grand Canyon trips, I’d seen a few squirrels, but on this one, we had mule deer right outside our Phantom Ranch cabin for most of the night. During the ascent, which we started before sunrise, we shared the trail with a bighorn sheep—another sight I never expected to see in the Grand Canyon.  

The scenery is spectacular.

I’ve admired the Grand Canyon from the rim, with hikes and stargazing on the Rim Trail, and drives on Hermit Road in the off-season. These vistas are dazzling, but I never fully appreciated the grandness of this canyon, or the sheer size of it, before hiking to the base.

The Grand Canyon floor is also a wonderful trip for geology buffs. The rock down here is said to be the oldest in the park, and experts believe it dates back nearly two billion years. (The youngest rock is found at the rim.)

And the stargazing is incredible. 

The Grand Canyon is a DarkSky International-certified park, and you can enjoy its inky nightscapes from virtually all vantage points. Down on the canyon’s base, though, the view is extra enchanting.

For starters, you can see the nightscape without the glow of hotel lights. Phantom Ranch uses only red lights for its exterior illumination, helping visitors retain their night vision to take in the stars—and there are a lot of them. I saw the Andromeda Galaxy, Pleiades, and Geminid meteors during my trip.

Where to Stay

Phantom Ranch is the most coveted place to stay on the Grand Canyon floor. It’s a collection of cabins and dorms that book out via a lottery system, and while the digs are pretty laid-back, a stay here feels luxurious after a day out in nature. After strenuous hours of hiking, you’re greeted with shower access, cozy beds, and an on-site dining hall and snack bar.

All is not lost if you can’t nab a ranch stay, though. Bright Angel Campground, located a few minutes from the property, is equally scenic. It’s tucked along the Bright Angel Creek, and campers can stop by the Phantom Ranch cantina for snacks and the ranch’s delicious lemonade—a wonderful treat after hours of sunny Arizona hiking.

 When to Go

With a lower elevation, the Grand Canyon floor can get up to 20 degrees hotter than the rim, so you’ll want to avoid the dead of summer because the weather can get very hot. I hiked it in early December, and the climate was perfect—around 30 degrees Fahrenheit and slightly snowy at the top, but up to about 50 and sunny on the canyon’s base.

Spring and fall are other great times to enjoy it. Deeper into winter, such as January and February, brings higher potential for snow, especially near the rim. This can make your trip slippery, so if you’re tackling a winter slog, make sure to pack sturdy hiking boots, trekking poles, and a pair of microspikes.