Plan the Perfect Getaway to Carmel-by-the-Sea

Not every California city enchants like Carmel-by-the-Sea, a tiny enclave (population, roughly 3,800) on the Golden State’s central coast, about 120 miles south of San Francisco. Some of its whimsy is natural. Outside of the summer months, Carmel Beach is serene, dotted with driftwood and locals on windy walks with their dogs. The spectacular Monterey cypress thrives here, even on unwelcoming rocky terrain—no Carmel visit is complete without a stroll in the soft sand, where you can take in these native trees and the protected cove of Carmel Bay.

Then, there are the charming idiosyncrasies forged by mankind. There are no street lights in Carmel’s central village, historic storybook cottages hide in plain sight (check out the Cottage of Sweets on Ocean Avenue), and homes have no address numbers—by rejecting mail delivery, it’s believed Carmel’s founders hoped people would connect with one another as they made the trip to the central post office. There’s even a municipal ban on high heels, ostensibly to protect the wearer, given the town’s older walkways. 

The heartbeat of Carmel-by-the-Sea is its quaint gridded village. Arrive ready to walk (in flats, of course), says Jack Galante, native Carmel resident, president of Galante Vineyards, and grandson of Carmel founder James Franklin Devendorf. Galante opened Carmel’s first-ever tasting room in 2004, and he’s still pouring today off of Dolores Street, between Ocean Avenue and Seventh Avenue.

“Carmel is a town to explore,” says Galante. “It’s a place where you go up and down the alleys and corridors just to see what you can find. Simply wandering is the neatest thing to do here.”

And in those wanderings, here are a few places Galante hopes you discover.

Best Hotels & Resorts

La Playa Hotel

The historic La Playa Hotel dates back to 1905, but it’s been thoroughly and extravagantly updated to balance heritage with modern comforts. Out of all the hotels on this list, it’s the one closest to the sand, and there are 75 unique rooms and suites to choose from. “La Playa is a beautiful spot to stay,” says Galante. “And it has wonderful gardens—especially great if you’re doing a nice event or a wedding.”

Le Petit Pali

Le Petit Pali took over an old motor lodge on Ocean Avenue and brought it back to life with custom furnishings and stylish decor. There are 34 rooms here, all the downtown dining, wine tasting, and shopping visitors could want are just steps away. (There’s even a second Le Petit Pali on 8th Avenue, should you want to compare properties.) “The hotel feels genuinely cozy, with thoughtfully designed nooks and corners that invite you to slow down and settle in,” Susmita Baral, a senior editor at Travel + Leisure, says. “The nighttime cookie ritual adds a warm, homey touch, and the walkable location makes it easy to wander into downtown Carmel without ever feeling rushed.”

Villa Mara

Villa Mara is ideal for a romantic getaway in Carmel. Operating as a hotel since 1929, the property is set on a bluff and has just 16 rooms, but only for guests 21 and older. A private balcony and ocean views come with most accommodations. 

Stilwell Hotel

The 42-room Stilwell Hotel sits on San Carlos Street in downtown Carmel, so you’re a short walk to all of the town’s main attractions. Rooms and shared spaces are pretty and sophisticated; a glass of wine in the courtyard is a must. 

L’Auberge Carmel

Another intimate option, L’Auberge Carmel has just 20 rooms, plus easy village and beach access. Foodies will especially love that the hotel is home to Aubergine, a two-Michelin-star restaurant that offers an ever-changing multicourse tasting menu.

Best Things to Do

Go wine tasting.

Monterey County is a productive wine region, so sipping local varietals is a must. There are numerous tasting rooms right in Carmel (and a suggested Wine Walk), but you can also take a quick drive into Carmel Valley for tastings at venues like Folktale Winery & Vineyards and Cowgirl Winery.

Appreciate the art scene.

A place as naturally beautiful as Carmel is bound to draw creatives. Naturally, the village is home to dozens of galleries showcasing art of all kinds. Visit on the second Saturday of the month to join the Carmel Art Walk and stroll with fellow art lovers. “Carmel is entrenched in the arts—it has been so ever since it was founded,” says Galante. “If you’re here for the day, be sure to go into an art gallery. And don’t be afraid to get off the beaten path—go down the side streets, go through the alleys, and find the little hidden gems.” For a full artistic immersion, Baral recommends taking an art class.

Spend an early morning in Point Lobos State Natural Reserve.

There’s minimal parking at this gorgeous preserve, but the seaside trails and tide pools here are more than worthy of setting a 7 a.m. alarm. Snag a spot for your vehicle early, then hit the dirt. The Cypress Grove Trail will reward you with incredible ocean vistas and time beneath towering Monterey cypress trees.

Cruise 17-Mile Drive.

One of the best drives in the U.S., this route snakes around the Monterey Peninsula, delivering unbelievable views along the way. Carmel-by-the-Sea is its southern starting point; from there, you’ll drive north toward Monterey. The Lone Cypress (located in Pebble Beach) and Pebble Beach Golf Links are among the famous attractions you’ll pass.

Spend a few hours at Carmel Beach.

There are so many natural wonders within Carmel Bay, and they’re protected within Carmel Bay State Marine Conservation Area; Carmel Beach, which most people access via the village’s Ocean Avenue, is adjacent to the underwater preserve. Bring some lunch and perhaps some toys to this stretch of white sand, and be on the lookout for marine life like otters, seals, and dolphins.

Best Restaurants

There’s no shortage of great bites in Carmel, like one of Galante’s go-to favorites, Dametra Cafe. The Mediterranean fare and fun atmosphere here call Galante back time and time again, as well as the delightful menu, which includes everything from Lebanese baba ghanoush and Greek lamb shank to Italian frutti di mare.

Chez Noir

Chez Noir is a refined yet welcoming restaurant that spotlights the flavors of coastal California under the helm husband-and-wife duo chef Jonny Black and Monique Black. The contemporary, seafood-forward menu highlights ingredients sourced from the region. “The menu is seasonal, but during my visit, every course was impeccably executed,” Baral says. “From the caviar funnel cake and Dungeness crab salad to the sea urchin tagliatelle, each dish felt like a standout bite.”

Village Corner

Any morning of the year, you can expect a handful of locals at Village Corner, newspapers open and coffee set alongside a basket of freshly baked croissants. We recommend joining them for your morning meal–grab a patio seat if you’d like to people-watch while dining on banana pecan pancakes or a smoked salmon scramble. Lunch is served, too.

Jeju Kitchen

Jeju Kitchen has a menu of comfort Korean food with classics like short ribs and dolsot bibimbap rice bowls, and fusion dishes like kimchi mac and cheese or miso cacio e pepe. “The menu is one of those rare cases where you truly can’t go wrong—every dish feels thoughtfully executed,” Baral says. “As someone who takes mac and cheese very seriously, the kimchi mac and cheese stood out as a must-order, delivering comfort with just the right amount of edge.”

La Bicyclette Restaurant

La Bicyclette Restaurant is another excellent option—it feels like you’re dining in a rustic Italian farmhouse, thanks to the homey wooden furnishings and pots and pans dangling from the walls. Order a pizza fresh from the wood-fired oven, a plate of Parisian gnocchi, and a salad of your choice.

Stationæry

Stationæry is an intimate cafe serving daily brunch (think: avocado toast, lobster rolls, and spicy Mexican hot chocolate), plus dinner. Menu items change with the season, and allowing California’s bounty to sway things is always a good plan.

Best Time to Visit

While it’s beautiful here year-round, Galante says the best time to visit Carmel-by-the-Sea for fewer crowds is late fall and winter. The area also hosts a few noteworthy events worth factoring into your travel plans: the Pebble Beach Food & Wine event in April, the Carmel Art Festival in May, and the Carmel International Film Festival in October. 

How to Get There

The largest nearby airports are San Francisco International Airport (SFO) and San Jose Mineta International Airport (SJC). From SFO, you’ll drive about two hours south to Carmel-by-the-Sea. Landing at SJC shaves off about 30 minutes from your drive. Monterey Regional Airport, meanwhile, is just 15 minutes away from town, but connectivity is limited. 

How to Get Around

Once in the main village of Carmel-by-the-Sea, walking is recommended—it’s only one square mile, but that small area is so full of shops and cafes, it can easily fill a weekend. Galante says riding a bike is a fun way to explore, too. In order to explore nearby areas like Carmel Valley, 17-Mile Drive, the Carmel Mission Basilica, or state parks, you’ll need a car.