After last season’s collection inspired by the world of boxing, Yuhan Wang turned her attention to ice hockey—but not as we know it today. Instead, the designer looked to sportswomen who took to the rink during the Victorian era, dressed in tailored jackets and maxi skirts. “I [wanted] to bring this kind of energy into a modern sportswear context; something both functional and romantic,” she explained in a preview.
This duality could be seen in the padded herringbone jacket paired with frilly bloomers, as well as the varsity tops—inspired by ’80s and ’90s stars like Angela James, Cammi Granato, and Manon Rhéaume—teamed with lightweight skirts. Contrasting textures were a key theme: See the shaggy faux-fur coats worn with lace socks and underpinnings, and the loose threads of the red intarsia sweater styled with puffed-out nylon boxing shorts.
Wang is best known for her use of lace, which appeared in interesting forms this season, as trims on technical wear, and in patchwork polo shirts made from deadstock fabrics. The latter are sure to be a hit with her celebrity fan base, which now includes Blackpink’s Jennie, Jisoo, and Lisa.
While the designer’s spring 2025 sometimes veered into gimmicky territory due to the sheer amount of references on display, this season, she offered a more refined take on sportswear that fits naturally within her brand universe. What’s sparked her interest in the category? “Nobody’s really asked how women want to dress in sportswear; it’s mainly men’s shapes,” she said. Although no one’s likely to actually play ice hockey in Wang’s designs anytime soon, they’re a pleasing counterpoint to the athleisure that’s long dominated the market.
