The motif of a friendship bracelet was woven through Ahluwalia’s fall 2026 collection: a thick silken braid across the chest of a drapey ice-blue long-sleeve, gathering at the heart; a woolen suit with interlacing lapels and tuxedo trims, and a hand-plaited, body-contouring corset in Demantoid green. Denim jeans and skirts featured intricate weaves that shaped the thighs and edged the hips. Priya Ahluwalia was thinking about the resplendence and resilience that comes from forming a close-knit community, binding yourselves together.
As a designer that loves to immerse herself in research, the themes of spring 2026—a collection she titled Affinity—moved fluidly into fall. (The threads of 2027, Ahluwalia said in a preview, are already knitting together.) The previous season referenced the Nigerian goddess of love and fertility, and Bollywood films, reflecting on frenetic and futile approaches to romantic relationships, articulated in a collection of warped and bubbling hemlines and a blazer fringed like a bleeding heart. Fall focused on kinship and the female friendships that have consistently made Ahluwalia feel fulfilled; it was dubbed Birds of a Feather, inspired by a phrase her mother has always used.
Fabrics were tactile and prints expansive, reflecting the intimacy of, say, grabbing your girlfriends on the dance floor underneath syncopated lights while house music thrums in your chest and your shared energies make your smile ache. Ahluwalia often references women’s quilting circles and craft collectives and their own storytelling across cultures and millennia. Here that was imbued in sculptural tailoring and draped slip dresses that exalted the female form, embellishment, and embroidered feathery flourishes. More utilitarian silhouettes and impeccable tailoring were softened with textured fibers and cast in warm, sumptuous chocolate, wine, and burnt orange tones. As always, Ahluwalia worked with majority sustainable fabrics: it’s ingrained in her brand’s DNA to do so. This collection saw her significantly reduce the amount of recycled polyester in favor of recycled yarns, unbleached denims, deadstock, and organic materials.
The braiding built upon the major fringing moments that also happened in spring 2026: On Sunday Wunmi Mosaku collected a BAFTA award wearing a custom electric blue layered fringe gown from Ahluwalia. (More VIP moments to come, she said.) A stand-out black dress had layers of horizontal cable knits and fringe packed in between for some serious shimmying, perfect for an awards season after-party. There was a feeling of depth with a luxurious looking double-layered suit, and a devoré piece sheer enough to sensually expose the gauzy shirt underneath. One swirling, orb-like print spoke conceptually to ever-evolving friendship circles, while another blurred ombré laser print, developed over several seasons, appearing on knits and evening wear, evoking those sparks that fly among friends when the night is all yours.
There was also a sneak peek at Ahluwalia’s next Puma drop, inspired by grassroots football and delighting in the bold color combos of the designer’s Nigerian-Indian heritage. “I really enjoy working on these bigger collaborations so I can access their new technologies, and see the possibilities for our future,” she said.
Ahluwalia has been cognizant of a shifting customer base, for the better. “We’re attracting a broad range of age, so there’s a printed dress that I think would work on Tracee Ellis Ross, and that same print on a minidress for my girls going to the club,” she said.
As for Ahluwalia herself, the year ahead is booked and busy: custom moments, a film, brand events, and, she said, working on a wallpaper and soft furnishings for the first iteration of Ahluwalia Home—perfect for hosting your own pals.
