Before last year, Bibhu Mohapatra would normally zero in on a muse for the season, and have them inspire his collections—not a facsimile of their personal style or aesthetics, but his interpretation of the subject’s essence. But for the last two seasons, after he returned to India to perform funerary rites for his parents and brother, Mohapatra’s offerings have centered on grief and loss.
Now, the designer is combining the concept of a muse and his Indian heritage to pave a new way forward. After bringing pieces from his last collection to India, Mohapatra decided to shoot a campaign at various landmarks in Mumbai—the Gateway of India and the Queen’s Necklace among them. He left feeling galvanized by the twentysomethings who made up his crew. “I was blown away by what we created,” he said. “They’re putting in 200%.” Around that same time, he was heartened by a June 2025 ruling in the Andhra Pradesh High Court that declared trans women legally women. “The broadening of the definition of women forced me to look at my culture with a different lens and how this is reflected in today’s world,” he said.
Thus, Mohapatra decided that he wanted his spring 2026 collection to appeal to a new generation, while still honoring trailblazing Indian women of the 20th century. “I am basically channeling the spirits of those women and building a bridge to the 21st century,” he said.
The collection did look younger than in previous seasons. The pastel pink satin crepe cargo pants underneath a more traditional red kurta were a particular highlight, as were the cargo jeans paired with a white, rhinestone-encrusted crop top. But the array of opulent evening gowns seemed unlikely appeal to a younger demographic.
It was nice to see Mohapatra embrace vibrant colors this season. The bold chartreuse was reminiscent of last year’s Brat Summer, while the pale pink and red combination felt playful. “I wanted this collection to be about hope, optimism, and a celebration of the people of India,” he said. “I wanted to make it happy.”
