Brunello Cucinelli’s knack for anticipating atmospheric shifts in taste is reflected in his eponymous company’s exceptional performance during one of the most challenging periods in recent luxury history. This afternoon, he seemed meteorologically clairvoyant, too, when he presented a womenswear collection themed around the power of the earthly elements. About 20 minutes after the event opened, what had begun as a rainstorm turned into a hailstorm so intense that Cucinelli ushered all his guests, staff and models from the presentation pavilion into the brick and mortar safety of his Milan building.
Water flowed into the collection primarily through decoration: coralline clusters of sequin and lace were arranged in tonal reefs across belted culottes, full skirts and safari jackets. Sequin-surfaced cashmere sweaters became dappled when disrupted by movement. Two beautifully crafted pieces, a top and a dress in sequin-spun crochet ‘scales’ of wool cashmere, were fit for knitwear mermaids.
Air was explored chiefly through perforation of material, leather mostly, as well as embroidered open weave knits fashioned from a yarn made in house. Dresses were edged in fringed fil coupe designed to catch the breeze. Volumes were maximized on gauzy shirt sleeves and pants, yet carefully rigged through seam and structure to maintain their shape even in the dead calm of stillness.
Earth and Fire came not-quite interchangeably bundled in the palette of tones running from lava to rhubarb via ochre and clay, a spectrum explored in irregular and oversized embellished herringbone chevrons, perforated leathers, and equestrian touched tailoring pieces. Accessories included envelope shaped handbags in suede or perforated leather. Necklaces were hung with a ringed clasp designed to hang eyewear from: a clever and useful piece.
