At the end of Christian Siriano’s fall 2026 presentation tonight, model Coco Rocha—a recurring muse for the designer—sauntered out in a voluminous, two-tiered bubble dress, the shiny fabric oozing in a degradé from blue to green. Rocha twirled and posed dramatically, as though she was some sort of high-fashion alien. Was it over the- op? Yes, but it also brought out a smile from even the most jaded of fashion insiders in the front row. “I wanted it to feel like a liquid painting coming apart,” Siriano said backstage pre-show of the look. “This season, I liked things that were a bit strange, and using fabrics how you wouldn’t normally use them.”
Siriano always leans into theatricality, so embracing the eccentric or surreal was not a groundbreaking concept for him. But it felt more important than ever to do so this season, he said, given the current—let’s say challenging—landscape that we are living in here in America. “I don’t know what my world is [right now], so I wanted things to feel like escapism and fantasy,” he said. That came through in his evening wear mostly: Siriano is best known for his red carpet dresses and statement cocktail attire, and he aimed to subvert classic glamour with touches that felt otherworldly and deliberately off-kilter.
His opening look was made of a formal evening satin reworked as a corseted moto jacket, with the dress pants to go with it. Look two was a spliced tuxedo jacket, cut asymmetrically at the waist and given only one sleeve, paired with a feather-trimmed skirt. You could tell Siriano put real effort into focusing on his materials this season: His plushy “faux fur” coat was actually made of feathers, meant to resemble fur, while a cropped black bolero jacket was made of gathered lace, almost resembling tulle. In past seasons, his choice of materials could often seem tricky to wear, but this season they felt elevated and more intentional.
Of course, there was plenty of organza—perhaps too much organza. It has become a signature fabric for the designer, and he used it (heavy-handedly) on everything from sheer blazers with boning, to full-on draped gowns, the swaths of fabric criss-crossed on the dresses in a mélange of ways. There is something about a gigantic ruffle of organza, fanning out across the entire torso, that does not feel very modern or refined, but Siriano’s customers seem to love this extravagance, and his intention for the season was not to focus on the pragmatic. “There are enough brands that are great at what they do, and this is what I do,” he said.
Sequins, too, popped up frequently throughout the collection, as seen on a silvery sculptural bodice with a matching skirt. It was refreshing to see Siriano do such architectural shapes on a wide range of body types: He remains, still shockingly, one of the few New York designers who routinely thinks about size diversity on the runway, not to mention in his core business. And he is not only willing to dress a wide range of clients, but willing to give them that same exact showmanship or pizazz, when so many other designers tend to water down their plus-size designs. That alone makes his clothes so much more commendable.
