This Hidden Gem in Italy Has the Oldest National Park in the Country, Cheese Tours, and Fairy-tale Towns

Nestled between the towering peaks of Mont Blanc and the storybook charm of the Italian Alps, Courmayeur and La Thuile are two under-the-radar resort towns that quietly, confidently redefine après-ski. Forget beer-soaked bars and thumping bass—in Italy’s Aosta Valley, unwinding after a day in the snow is slower, steamier, and infinitely more delicious. Picture a snowy hike to a rustic rifugio for a bubbling plate of truffle polenta, or a candlelit soak in an alpine spa followed by a crisp vermouth in a sleek hotel lounge, mountains glowing outside the windows. Here, après-ski isn’t an afterthought—it’s a way of life. Maybe even the point.

That was my approach, at least. On a rare solo getaway from my two young kids, I wasn’t looking to chase thrills—I was looking to exhale. I traded in high-adrenaline skiing for peaceful snowshoeing, long meals by roaring fireplaces, and a few life-changing cheeses. I spent mornings wrapped in a spa robe, afternoons tasting biodynamic wines in mountainside cellars, and evenings watching the sky turn gold over the Alps. I cherished the beauty of nature; it felt restoring on a soul level.

Of course, the mountains demand a certain humility. On my ride to the peak of Skyway Monte Bianco, I was hit with a wave of altitude sickness so intense I had to throw up. And yet, as I looked out over the jagged peaks, glaciers, and glinting snowfields, it didn’t matter. I’d do it again in a heartbeat. Because in the Aosta Valley, altitude doesn’t just affect your breath; it enriches everything. The food is richer (I heard a saying multiple times: In Italy, the higher the elevation, the heartier the food.) The hospitality is warmer. The wine tastes somehow deeper, like it’s been aged in the mountains themselves.

Here’s how to embrace winter in the Italian Alps, Italian style—where fontina reigns, spa robes are a daily essential, and aperitivo comes with a view.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Grand Hotel Courmayeur Mont Blanc

My home base in Courmayeur, this five‑star retreat feels both luxurious and grounded. Picture floor‑to‑ceiling windows framing Mont Blanc, plush contemporary decor, and a spa that’s a sanctuary of warmth after a chilly day outdoors. The Erre Spa—complete with a sauna, a Turkish bath, sensory showers, and an indoor pool—is there to melt tension away. The Equinox Lounge Bar adds a cozy hub for evening aperitivo, with local biodynamic wines and a wood‑fired hearth backdrop. Sleek yet intimate, it’s where mountain grandeur meets heartfelt hospitality.

Montana Lodge & Spa, La Thuile

A 50‑room alpine gem, this lodge marries design and soul in La Thuile (think: modern-chic rooms and soft lighting that echo wood‑and‑stone surroundings, all within minutes of ski lifts) The spa is a restorative oasis—with a pool, a Turkish bath, a sauna, and an optional private suites—to ease the day’s muscles and chatter. Bistrò Alpino serves meals made with fresh, local ingredients, making winding down effortless.

Grand Hotel Courmayeur Mont Blanc and Montana Lodge & Spa are part of R Collection Hotels, and both balance indulgence with thoughtful, personalized service. “After a day in the mountains, our spas are a warm embrace of water and steam,” says Gianandrea Gillio, winter concierge for both properties and a lifelong Valdostano.

Le Miramonti Alpine Hotel & Wellness, La Thuile

For something quietly elegant, Le Miramonti is a rustic jewel born in 1887. Set alongside the Dora River, its architecture blends history with wellness—complemented by an inviting spa and a convivial atmosphere. Here, the hush of the river outside the window pairs perfectly with a post-ski soak and a glass of local red by the fire.

Hotel Boton d’Or & Wellness, La Thuile

Hotel Boton d’Or & Wellness is packed with spa amenities rivaling its upscale neighbors (think: an indoor pool, a sauna, and a Turkish bath—all within easy walking distance of lifts). Ideal for travelers who want wellness without the high price tag.

Re Delle Alpi Resort

With its unbeatable ski-in location beside the Les Suches lift, Re Delle Alpi makes slope days seamless and spa time essential. The steam room, Turkish bath, and sleek interiors offer a modern kind of mountain luxury: elegant but unfussy, like the best kind of après.

Best Things to Do

Ride the Skyway Monte Bianco.

This gondola journey to Punta Helbronner, about 11,000 feet high, is not for the faint of heart—altitude sickness is real. But the 360-degree views of the Alps and the immersive exhibits on biodiversity and geology are unforgettable.

Try snowshoeing in Val Veny.

Snowshoeing may sound niche, but it’s basically just walking in the snow—and the beauty of the valley makes it feel spiritual. Guided excursions often end with lunch in a mountainside hut.

Go wine tasting at Les Crêtes.

Run by the same family since 1750, Les Crêtes offers a stunning tasting room overlooking the valley. The wines are vibrant and full of personality. Visits feel more like warm welcomes than formal tours.

Take a cheese tour.

Fontina is everywhere here, but for the full experience, visit the Fontina Museum and arrange a cellar tour. Aged in natural caves, this cheese is deeply tied to the region’s heritage.

Visit Cogne and Valnontey.

Looking for a quiet escape? Head to the village of Cogne, the gateway to Gran Paradiso National Park. “It’s still largely untouched by mass tourism, yet it offers so much to know and understand the local history and culture,” says Gillio. From here, explore Valnontey, one of the most pristine areas in Italy’s oldest national park. You’ll glimpse icy rivers framed by snow-laced larch trees, towering peaks, and the occasional ibex clambering along the ridgeline.

Best Restaurants

Lo Ratrak, La Thuile

Accessible by gondola, this mountaintop restaurant is as cozy as it is delicious. Expect hearty regional fare: truffle-laced polenta, velvety risottos, and grilled meats.

La Fourchette, La Thuile

This family-run gem pairs alpine flavors with creative plating. Don’t miss their fontina-based specialties and the rotating menu of seasonal dishes. I was a bit obsessed with the egg tortelli stuffed with shrimp and bright with lime. 

Café Roma, Courmayeur

Equal parts bar and bistro, Café Roma is a hub for aperitivo. Try the vermouth-forward cocktails and small plates of local charcuterie and cheese.

Le Dahu, Courmayeur

Known for its natural wine list and rustic-modern vibe, Le Dahu serves hearty dishes with a twist—a perfect après-ski hangout.

Bistrò Alpino, La Thuile

Chef Alessandro Gioe draws from Valdostan tradition, crafting dishes that feel both rooted and refined, like local carnaroli rice with saffron and osso buco ragu. The experience is generous, soulful, and quietly transporting, where mountain flavors meet elegant execution.

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit the Aosta Valley for a ski-centered escape is December through March, when the slopes are in peak condition and the region’s coziness is on full display. Snowshoeing, spa visits, and fireside meals make this a perfect time to unwind.

But don’t overlook autumn: Foliage season in the Alps is a hidden treasure. According to Gillio, mild weather and colorful forests make it ideal for hiking, wine tasting, and mushroom foraging.

Expert Tip

“You can’t come to the Aosta Valley without paying tribute to the queen of our mountains: Mont Blanc,” says Gillio. “The Skyway is a must-do. But I also love Cogne—it’s still largely untouched by mass tourism and offers a gateway to Valnontey, one of the most pristine valleys in Gran Paradiso National Park.”

His personal tip for adventurous skiers? “Heli-skiing. It’s an unforgettable way to experience fresh powder,” he adds. And for those who prefer to take it slow: “A ski safari from Italy into France is magical. You can ski into La Rosière, enjoy an aperitif, then return to Italy by sunset.”

Getting There

The Aosta Valley is nestled in northwestern Italy, just a short journey from several major travel hubs. The most convenient international gateway is Milan Malpensa Airport (MXP), which offers direct flights from major U.S. cities and is about a two- and 2.5-hour drive from Courmayeur and La Thuile, respectively.

You can rent a car at the airport for the most flexibility—especially if you plan to explore the region’s lesser-known villages and vineyards—or arrange a private transfer through your hotel. If you’d rather skip the drive, trains run regularly from Milan to Aosta with a transfer in Chivasso, and hotel shuttles or taxis can take you the final leg into the mountains.

For travelers coming from France, Geneva Airport (GVA) is another option, located just across the border and also roughly two hours by car from the Aosta Valley.